Tuesday, May 13, 2008

Thailand!!







Hello all! Lots of news to tell you about yet again! This time it’s all about my amazing Golden Week trip to Thailand. It’s another long one so be warned!
Our trip start off with a curse--- me almost losing my passport the day before the flight, pouring rain on the walks to the train to the airport, the worst burned cinnamon buns imaginable, and a scraped and infected foot injury for my traveling companion Jess right before we left Japan.
In Bangkok a very very excited Julie met up with her boyfriend Duane for the first time since Christmas. Surprisingly we both made it to the hotel ok and our meeting went ok- we were worried with multiple international flights, not knowing the language, internet hotel bookings and no cell phones to connect to each other with. Everything went ok with the meet up minus the fact that Duane already had gotten ripped off by the taxi’s at the airport in Bangkok on the way. And so starts the difference between Thailand and Japan- in Thailand people are jolly but you can’t trust a thing they say it seems (overemphasizing obviously) where as in Japan they are serious and burden you with unnecessary formalities—but you can trust a random person with your life and best interest. It was a little scary walking around before Duane arrived. Jess and I explored the area a little on our own but were glad when we had our male escort with us for the rest of the trip (I know it sounds bad, but still sometimes late at night it’s nice to have a guy with you.) Everyone would be trying to get your attention/money in their cab/massage place- call outs, calling “tuk tuk” (taxi) (which everyone who has been to Thailand undoubtedly cannot forget and identifies with). Still we thought we were somewhat aware and considered ourselves ‘wise travelers.’
Day 1: The Vogley scam- first let me start off my prefacing that it was very hot and muggy and we really had done no research on Bangkok. We knew that the king’s sister had recently died but little of Thai culture. So anyways after visiting the Imperial Palace and practicing our bartering skills about a boat near a market, we decided to get out the map (*tourist alert!) and walk where we were going. We got to the corner and were double checking our map when this man walking by stopped and asked if we needed help. He seemed super friendly and told us that he was a monk/used to be a monk/was going into the monkhood- something like that, and was telling us the best places to go in Bangkok. We were suspicious at first, but he talked to us for like 10 minutes with a suggested route and as far as we could tell, was honestly doing it out of the goodness of his heart. He told us not to go to the reclining Buddha (which we were just around the corner and a few blocks from) until after 4pm because the monks were praying for the king’s sister until then. He also tried to tell us the difference between the tuk tuk colors and told us how to ask (in Thai) for one to wait with us while we went to multiple places that wouldn’t cost too much. We were ecstatic when the ‘good’ tuk tuk color came around the corner a minute later as he encouraged us to catch it and get to the first of our destinations. We said a multiple of Thanks and after explaining to the driver exactly where to go and in what order, we were off. We made it to the first destination and had a blast driving around in the Tuk Tuk. They really are fun to be in- air cools you off and still great to take pictures from since there aren’t windows. So anyways we went to our first destination, and the tuk tuk driver seemed really nice too- showing us basic places of entry, telling us about when it’s ok to take a picture and things like a cool place to feed the fish. When we got back from our second destination, he said he just had to run to the bathroom quickly. We thought it was a little weird that he didn’t just go while we were visiting the temple thing but could understand if he didn’t want us to come out and think that he left us. So anyways, we said sure go and started taking lots of Tuk Tuk pics. There was a man sitting in a truck next to us who engaged in friendly conversation about where we were from, where we were going etc when he heard us talking about what place to go to next. We were debating which was closer/best order, when he asked us to show him our map—since the monk guy from earlier had written a few things on it like “Vogley” a three day exhibition that was on tv and this was being highly publicized because this was the first year tourists had been allowed in. It was a place to buy designer label clothes before they put the labels on it. We originally were kinda meh with the idea, thought we may drive by it but that’s about it. Duane had actually wanted to buy a suit in Bangkok originally so we figured maybe it wouldn’t be so bad. The tuk tuk driver seemed to agree and said we would pass by it and see the balloons etc and we could go in if we wanted. So anyways, while the driver was in the bathroom, the guy chillin in his truck parked in the shade next to us asked how we heard about Vogley cuz he was surprised we knew about it, saying he went there yesterday and bought two and bought one for his mom in the USA. He showed us this ticket he got and fed us a few more lines about the membership card you get so you can get suits made later because they will have your measurements, free shipping and how today is the last day it’s open and so things are buy one get the second half off. A lot of info seemed to be in sync with what we had heard previously but he still wasn’t really pushing us to go or anything, just answering our questions. We started to wonder if things were a bit off when the Tuk Tuk driver conveniently came back from the washroom right as the truck guy was finishing his speech and telling us that it was closing at 3:30 so we better hurry if we want to go, and that the other place we were on our way to was closed with praying monks again for the King’s sister until a certain time. Anyways, we figured ok, let’s go check out this place at least to look (although already it sounded more expensive than we were expecting to pay for suits anyways.) So as soon as we are on the street with the suit place I see a sign on a building—a permanent sign, to a little shop that says Vogley. I turned to the others and was like—awww crap. Scam. We get out of the tuk tuk go inside and are looking at each other like awwwww boooo! We went upstairs, were laughing at ourselves for buying into all this and decided to quickly look at the books that they were showing us with the suits in them (we had gotten the impression it was a big exhibition with manicans in suits and them all hanging up etc), and then we would make a quick exit. We looked at them for maybe 2 minutes then stood up to leave. On the way downstairs they tried to give away—oops I mean sell of course, little items like perfume smelling soap. We gave them back and headed outside to get in our Tuk Tuk – if it was still there. He was there but surprised that we were out so quick. We didn’t mention the scam and said thank you, next place please. He asked us as we were driving if we’d bought anything and we said nope. We went to another place and when we got out from it he said “just one more stop”. We were like – no. Then he let us in on things—saying how he gets paid only if we stay for 8 minutes and he didn’t get paid for the last one cuz we left too soon, and how he’s almost out of gas and please let us do him a favor. We figured meh why not since we didn’t have much else to do and since he had been honest we figured we could have a little fun with this. So we went to the next place, everything was fine and dandy and after 8 minutes, left. He was happy, we were happy… until he said “please please one last stop!” I was angry and saying “no no more stops! We just did you a favor” he said this one was different and he would get blah blah and then he would give us the whole day for free. He said this was a jewelry factory where you could see Thai people making the jewelry and could buy pearls etc. for cheap. We negotiated saying we’d go to this place only if he took us to our last destination and then drove us back to the hotel or the far away shopping centre we wanted to go to. He was hesitant but agreed and we felt ok about going to the jewelry place. We told him we again didn’t buy anything and he explained more about the commission that he gets depending on how long we stay, what we buy etc. Then he took us to one of the places on the map that we had originally thought about going to, because it was right around the corner. He let us off at the back exit and as we went up the stairs he calls “I’m going to park just over there.” At this point I turned to Jess and Duane and said, “I bet you money that he is not going to be there when we get back.” They were like “I think he will, but even if he isn’t at least we got a taxi for the day for free then.” So fair enough, we enjoyed the last place—and when we got down from the mount—surprise surprise tuk tuk man was gone. We did a lap around the place and confirmed—he’d left us. At this point we looked for taxis but only saw tuk tuks around. We were a few blocks away from the main streets and were glad that it was still mid day when we were walking on the streets completely lost. We decided to catch a public taxi boat after another man on the street asked us if we were lost and asked if we needed help. He suggested a tuk tuk and when we said “oh no, no more tuk tuks!” he laughed and said haha ok ok take the boat over there, it’s going the same direction. Realising we could only speak about 5 words in Thai (that Jess and I learned from the internet the night before our flight) and transportation systems weren’t labeled quite as well as in Japan- we haphazardly asked a man at the boat dock if this was going the right way- he nodded and we jumped on completely clueless. The boat system actually worked quite well- you get on, a man on the boat comes to sell you a ticket (super cheap of course as there were all Thai people and only 1 foreigner other than us). Then you just get off at any dock you choose along the way. Jess was pretty nervous since it was a bit dodgy and the dirty river water began to splash up a bit (and she was doing all she could to prevent her foot from getting infected). To stop from getting wet, people on the sides would hold up a blue tarp—and that was it. There was very little signage at each place, but fortunately we heard someone say they were getting off at our stop and another person helped hint us that we should get off here. We got off, felt a bit lost, but then saw a big shopping centre that Narin had suggested going to- so all felt well. MBK was a huge mall with something like 8 floors. We enjoyed shopping in an air con’d environment and didn’t feel quite so nervous about eating the food- as it hadn’t been outside in the 35 degree heat with flies around it all day. Duane found a great jean store that sold real—or so we think—Diesels, True Religion, Sevens etc for cheap. He bought quite a few pairs for a total of something like $100. Jess and I tried—but found the curse of the gaijin (foreigner) still remained—we just aren’t built the same as petite Thai girls (nor Japanese). For dinner we went to this amazing food court in MBK. It was as deluxe of a foodcourt as I’d ever seen- paying with this preloaded credit card thing and someone all dressed up collecting dishes and trays etc. It had all the foods that Jess and I had been dreaming about for months and even a place for a live band to play. After a bit more shopping and a quite internet check in message to mom and dad we headed back to the hotel after a half an hour taxi cue since no one wanted to take another Tuk Tuk that night- especially in the rain.
The next day we played it pretty low key. We wanted to go to the floating markets but after finding out that they were over an hour away, decided it wasn’t worth it before our flight that day. We went to the backpacker part of town Khao San Road and did some major market shopping (though of course in retrospect we wish we bought a lot more there). We had some fantastic cheap thai food and decided we were definitely going to get used to this – for me I was in heaven just having fruit smoothies again : )
We arrived at the airport early- a bit out of paranoia regarding traffic and more so since the flight we were supposed to be taking was apparently cancelled in one of the copies of the flight itinerary we got in email the night before leaving Japan. We wanted to get there to make sure. So we arrived at something like 3 and didn’t get to take off until after 9pm since not only was our first flight cancelled but our next was delayed a few hours. Let me tell you, we sure know the Bangkok airport domestic terminal (really is nothing in rival to the international terminal there). We went to a medi clinic in the airport because Jess’s foot had gotten more infected already. It was hard to find though because although we saw signs posted for two—when we went to find the first one we had a man at the bottom of the escalator claiming he was “information” and took us to a man who was indeed not a doctor but someone trying to sell hotel rooms etc. We were pretty angry since we said we were looking for a doctor/hospital and were frustrated because what if it had actually been more serious and he was preventing us to getting medical help. Anyways we finally found one, and everything went ok there other than the man taking Jess’ blood pressure and almost squeezing her arm right off. After that, we still had more time to kill in the airport and decided to get our first Thai massages. Twas pretty fun but even the foot massage was not quite as relaxing as I had imagined. Finally after another meal and hour in the airport we learned we were allowed to check in our big backpacks. We were quite happy to get rid of them and I didn’t even realize until 10 minutes after check in that my ipod had been left in the bag.
Well when we finally arrived in Chiang Mai, the first thing I did was go to get my ipod out—and already I realised—with the pockets of my bag now not shut the same way I left them- that my ipod would be gone. Thus the bad luck continued. I was pretty angry- more at myself for knowing I shouldn’t leave anything valuable in checked luggage but also at whoever the heck stole my ipod because they obviously worked for Air Asia and saw it in the baggage monitor- grrr. I think I handled it ok and didn’t complain too much but the frustrating part for me was losing the skin around the ipod as it was a gift from Duane that went along with a joke/memory between us. Oh well, live and learn. I decided to think positively and realize that my birthday is coming up and I could buy myself the new ipod touch—haha and outdue Narin’s too as a bonus! (Yes I know ego is a terrible thing.)
The hotel in Chiang Mai seemed very dodgy at first with out late night check in and all. Fortunately things looked a little brighter the next morning when our tour guide came to pick us up for our Elephant Trek. A word of advice to all those going to Thailand—tours are definitely worth going on—but booking them before you go is quite stupid unless you are indeed getting in late one night and want to do the tour the next morning. Prices are sooo much more expensive when you book online- as well as a mighty big hassle too. Anyways our tour was lots of fun. We went to an orchid farm then fed elephants bananas, watched them get washed and perform a show (demonstrating how elephants are traditionally used for carrying lumber in Thailand, but how they can also paint and listen well to their trainers) then we went for an elephant ride. Our ride took us about an hour through the jungles of northern Thailand to a small tribal village that had no roads accessing it. The manhout (people who ride/train the elephants) live in this tribe and we saw where they live and the handicrafts and traditional outfits of their tribe. You could tell that they weren’t completely isolated and how the manhouts at least had access to the city obviously, but still it was pretty interesting. After arriving back at the elephant camp we had one of the best meals we had in Thailand. Lots of fantastic fruit, stir-fry, rice, soup, vegetables and more. Following lunch Duane and I took a bamboo raft ride down the river. It was very relaxing and surreal with a man paddling us through a river safari- elephants along the riverside and a lady wading in the middle of the river selling cold drinks half way through. Jess and many tribal children met us at the end of the ride and we were off in the van to another part of Chiang Mai. This time we visited an area designated for several tribes who had faced persecution in surrounding countries like Burma. We were particularly interested in the Palong and Karen-long neck tribe. There are many long neck tribes in the area. We tried to find out about reasons why the women put the rings on their necks in the first place, but apparently even the guide didn’t know where it originated from- an aesthetic trait in the tribe now. It is difficult for the women in the tribe because while the men can leave and potentially blend in with other people in local towns and cities- the women cannot take off their rings and are thus very restricted in what they do. Females start wearing the heavy rings at a very young age. It is a personal/tribal decision as to when to add more and when to start, but we saw many young children already with rings on their arms, legs and necks. Now there is disagreement within the tribes as some women want to shed their rings- and others in the tribe insist they keep them on, not only for cultural reasons, but also for tourism- as it is the major industry in Thailand and especially for these tribes. I definitely suggest if you are interested, looking into more info about the long neck tribes. Lots of info out there I:m going to keep researching too. We saw the construction of a new church/hall for all of the tribes to use together. The most impacting part for me was seeing the school that the children went to- when there was someone to teach. Sometimes Thai people arrange to come in and teach the village children a few things- but it is sporadic and the children also must help the tribe with weaving and chores. This is a picture of the school.
We returned to town, did some more market shopping and took a songthaew (meaning two benches in Thai) red truck taxi home. Basically you flag them, see if they are going your direction, then jump in. So many different types of transportation here that’s for sure! We also saw sooo many people shoved into a truck—apparently workers that commute from Burma- I think we saw at least 16 in the back of one pick up truck. Thailand always surprised me how many people could fit in a truck- or on a motorcycle.
The rest of the time in Chiang Mai we spent exploring the city (one of the largest in Thailand- though considerably smaller than Bangkok), getting massages/manicures/pedicures, shopping and eating everything we could : ) We went to a show on our last night there that contained many many traditional Thai as well as neighboring Tribal dances. There were dances with candles, swords and long finger nails. As always there were people selling things everywhere too! Tourism really is the main industry – like I said before. This picture I actually paid a few baht to take but she was just so darn cute, and the money means so much more for them than us. I felt a bit guilty afterwards—because they really do exploit the children a lot. I especially felt sad when we would be out late at night and children would be ‘working’ selling you flower necklaces etc wherever you’d go.
The next city was Phuket and we were quite ready to get out of our hotel in Chiang Mai once we went a day with a plugged toilet and were still really worried about Jess’s foot getting more infected in the northern jungle land. Phuket on the other hand, is in southern Thailand on the Andaman Sea. Phuket was sooo touristy—it was a shock to Jess and I to see so many foreigners! Took a while to adjust to after being in Japan for so long. In Phuket (pronounce Pooket) we took a fantastic boat tour to the beautiful--- and I mean absolutely stunning islands of Koh Phi Phi. Poor Jess couldn’t go in the water and was pretty much stuck on the boat because of her foot but I think we all still had a great time. I loved swimming and snorkeling in the gorgeous blue/green water with perfectly white sand. Ahhh heaven. I was awe struck especially at the location where they filmed the Leonardo DeCaprio movie the Beach. We also went to monkey beach where there were wild monkeys that we fed rambutan to. Twas very cool to see- but I realised I am a little more scared of monkeys than I thought. Hehe.
At the last island we visited on our speed boat tour, Duane and I decided spur of the moment to ditch the end of the tour and go paragliding with some boys from Sweeden. It was very random but turned out to be a sure highlight of my entire trip. I think Duane was a little nervous at first, but I was super stoked. It wasn’t the usual paragliding that you see from the beaches but one where you start from the beach, get pulled up by the boat, and when you can catch enough wind, you release the cord form the boat and free fly. I was up there for about 20 minutes. I must say hangliding and paragliding are sooo much better than Skydiving I still think. It’s so much fun to learn to control where you are flying and realize that you can stay up for hours. I still stick to the idea that if I live by cliffs and a place with a hang/paragliding school nearby it is something I’d really love to learn to do on my own and make it into a full on hobby. After Duane and I both flew we took a private speed boat back to Phuket with the flying Sweedish guys. We got to go back to the island where we met them for a bit while they packed up their supplies—and Duane and I basically had the whole little island to ourselves—right out of a dream it was! The guys actually decided to start driving off without us too! Lol! It was hilarious but I wouldn’t actually have minded that much staying overnight at that gorgeous place! There was a restaurant that was open in the day- we could’ve broken in and got pineapples and coconuts to eat or something I’m sure. Hehe.
Other things in Phuket were going to more beaches and lots more great food. We went to a few clubs/live music places too which were a blast. Oh yes and Simon Caberet--- lady boy show! Impressive eh? See below. The only real downside to Phuket was the sunburns. Did you know that brown people can sunburn too? Duane didn’t! hehe. Even with my 30+ sunblock I turned into quite the tomatoe and was feeling the pain for days. Still now, 10 days later I find myself still peeling. Eww.
Koh Samui was our last city- down south on the coast of the Gulf of Thailand. We left Phuket just in time before the rain started and also just missed the tragic cyclone in Burma. Our hotel in Koh Samui didn’t quite work out because for some reason our booking hadn’t gone through. We were really sad because we had picked a really nice place and wanted to splurge—but by the time we got there and found out it wasn’t booked, we just wanted to get to a hotel and to the beach. We ended up in almost a backpacker type place (which Koh Samui was only filled with until recently). It had a great location and access to the beach- which was all that really mattered anyways- oh yah and air conditioning as it was above 30 everyday we were in Thailand. In Koh Samui we did lots of relaxing on the beach, floating on airmatresses looking at the fish and coral, swimming and Jet Skiing. We also got full relaxing massages (ahh wonnnnnderful) and went on a “one day all Koh Samui Island highlights” tour. On the tour we saw the famous Big Buddha, a mummified monk, a monkey demonstration of how they retrieve coconuts (which we then got to eat and drink--- which are amazing when they are young and fresh), another few temples/statues, a viewpoint, and a waterfall. I was really excited to swim under the waterfall- although this one was more so swimming beside the waterfall because it was too rocky. Was gorgeous though- a scene out of Jurassic Park. By far the best part of Koh Samui though, was the nightlife. The restaurants there are incredible!! They are right on the beach, have super fresh seafood, are cheap, have great drinks and… are tables a foot out of the sand with cushions and towels where you can sit or lay down all day/night. It was soo relaxing and beautiful. We were hooked after night one. We topped it off my setting off a paper lantern into the sky which I have now decided I want to do at my wedding one day too. Lol I think I scared both Jess and Duane talking about all the things I learned from this trip about what I want at my island wedding one day. Hehe. Now all I have to do is find a husband willing to agree to it all….
It was tough saying goodbye to Duane at the end (and getting on that plane back to Japan where I would be all alone again in Neo and far away from English and fruit and beaches) but after two weeks, we were about broke and ready to get on with our lives. It was an absolutely phenomenal time- with of course many bumps along the way but all in all fantastic. I would definitely recommend Thailand to anyone traveling who wants to see/do lots on a limited budget. Next time I go back I think I will do a week of volunteering at an orphanage as per our original plan- then straight hit up the beaches. I wanted to go diving and snorkeling again near Koh Samui because it is supposed to be one of the best places in the world—but with sunburns and infections- I guess you can’t do everything.
Now I’m settling back into my life here in Japan. Less than three months to go—wow what a fast year- though am already looking forward to going back home. It was great to see my kids here again and I’m giving Thailand presentations all week. Still the frustrations with work continue- not much responsibility, too much useless paperwork, and too many restrictions- all the JHS are on field trips- but I have to sit at my desk in the ES instead because of ‘insurance’ reasons. Boo. My grade nine’s are in Devon right now- it has been super cool hearing updates both from the school end here and from mom and dad back home. Man how awesome would it have been if I could’ve gone with them!?! Maybe next year! Fingers crossed that the exchange will continue.
Well time to get back to studying Japanese!-Almost finished the JET textbooks and still keeping up my homework from my wonderful Japanese tutor Narin. Even though the teachers speak about me in Japanese as if I’m not even there/don’t understand a word- I am starting to pick up more and more. I hope to do the Japanese Language Proficiency Test back in Canada in December. We’ll see….
Take care everyone! Thanks for the birthday wishes already! : )